Nine Tips If Your Dog Becomes Aggressive
Recently a friend’s dog bit one of the children in the family, after seven years of living together without any aggression from the dog. The eight-year-old boy tends to be hyperactive and the dog tends to be nervous, and one day when they were alone in the back yard together, the child pulled the dog up on its back legs and hugged it hard. The dog bit the boy’s nose. In another situation I heard about, two female dogs in the same family who were good friends began to show jealousy and abruptly one day had a fight which led to one of them needing stitches. They couldn’t be trusted together after that until a lot of training and stress management had taken place.
Any dog can bite, of course. The number of biting incidents every year is astonishingly high, and a high percentage of those bites are inflicted on children. Dog-dog aggression is also a serious problem which can flare up suddenly or build gradually. Depressing.
But there is a lot you can do if your dog shows aggression. Here are nine tips.
1. Immediately manage the situation for safety. Don’t risk injury to yourself, other people, the dog, or other pets. Use a crate if the dog is used to one or if you can train him to accept it. (See my page on crate training.) It may be quite inconvenient for you to provide the necessary level of supervision while you consider your options, but it’s essential. For example, if two dogs in your house are not getting along, you may have to keep doors closed between them. You are avoiding dog bites and more in this step.
2. Start a log. Use a notebook or a clipboard with paper, something you can keep handy with a pen there too. Much as I love writing at the computer, in this case, I don’t recommend it as your primary log, because it is too easy to think you will write something the next time you turn on the computer and then not get around to it. Better to jot down short notes daily, or more often. Note any problems and also note successes. Don’t think you will remember it all later, because it will blur over time.
3. Take your dog to your veterinarian for a check-up. Pain anywhere in the dog’s body can make the dog very irritable. There are literally dozen of causes of dog aggression that veterinary attention can find. The veterinarian may suggest temporary medications for the dog, and you can consider that. (Only a small percentage of veterinarians at present would be able to make suggestions for herbal or homeopathic remedies, but some of those who do will consult by phone. This would be best after your regular vet has seen your dog.)
4. Be sure your dog gets plenty of exercise and healthy food. This may require some significant changes in your habits — you could get a lot more exercise too! — but a tired dog is typically way less likely to misbehave. If your dog’s aggression comes out when you walk him, you can get him used to a head halter such as a Halti or Gentle Leader which gives you more control without aggravating the problems. You may need to drive him to a different area to get good walks if your neighborhood isn’t optimal. Small dogs can get a good bit of exercise if you play with them in your house or apartment. (By the way, many small dog owners let aggressiveness go unchecked that they wouldn’t allow in a larger dog. Don’t make that mistake.) Regarding the food, the usual grocery store brands are full of chemicals which can affect behavior negatively. See other pages of this website for more on the importance of healthier dog food, or search the internet.
5. Avoid situations that bring out the aggressive behavior in your dog. Research shows that your vigilance can make all the difference in the long-term outcome of a dog aggression problem. If the issue is in your home, pay attention to what resources your dog may be guarding — things like access to you, a comfortable bed, food, toys, etc. This resource guarding can be relative to another dog, or relative to a cat or a person. I once had a rescue dog who tried to guard me from my husband Kelly when Kelly would enter my home office; it took a while, but after my husband had patiently given the dog many treats in the hallway before the growling began, the dog realized that there were two nice people in the family!
6. Train your dog. Go back to the basics of sit, stay, down, if you haven’t been using them a lot lately. If you do train your dog regularly, keep it up. Train tricks like shaking hands or rolling over, if you wish. The core idea here is to help your dog to use his mind and to enhance the relationship between you, THEN over time you can get better behavior in the stressful situations. Whatever you do, be sure to use pain-free training methods; not only are they more humane, they are actually more effective too. I highly recommend clicker training in this situation — here’s one outstanding book:
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Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog (Karen Pryor Clicker Book) by Emma ParsonsRead more about this book… |
7. Diminish your dog’s fear. Recognize that in most cases, fear is a big part of why your dog is aggressive. Do what you can to diminish his fear. I’m thinking here of things like massage and Tellington TTouch. Since every dog has a different handling threshold, that is, a different level of acceptance of being touched at all and of being touched in particular parts of the body, don’t push beyond what the dog likes. You will also be diminishing your dog’s fear by doing things mentioned in this article, such as more exercise and avoiding stressful situations.
8. Seriously consider hiring a really good dog trainer for a series of sessions. Many dog aggression situations are going to be somewhat beyond the ability of the owner to handle alone. In choosing a dog trainer, be very careful. Ask a lot of questions. You may be shocked at the cruelty of some of the methods that are commonly used to “break” a dog. Also, you may be vulnerable emotionally to a trainer who promises you that everything will be just fine, but be wary of anyone who promises you the moon. Be sure to ask the dog trainer about their background, professional training, and philosophy. Ask for at least three references, and phone those people. One resource for starting your dog trainer search is the list at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, a group I belong to. Don’t be in a hurry to send your dog away somewhere for training or “rehab” because the aggressive behavior happens in the context of your world, and in general it’s much better to work with someone while the dog stays at home. Real improvement is almost never going to happen in just one or two sessions. When the trainer evaluates your dog, discuss with them how many sessions they recommend, knowing that it’s hard to predict. This is likely to make a dent in your wallet but can make it possible to save a dog.
9. Consider your options and commit to a plan. This last tip is one of the most important, because no matter what difficult emotions you go through –anger, sadness, frustration, denial — if you keep working with your dog, revising your plan as needed, the outlook is much brighter than if you let things slide.
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We rescued a texas rednose female pitbull not spayed .She had pups 6 months earlier .Brought her home she is very aggresive towards our 10 year old male pitbull since we brought her home 5 days ago .How do we introduce them safetly .Tryed spraying her face , are keeping them in seperate rooms they each get private time out what do we do ?
Cheryl,
Get help locally from a certified trainer.
Rosana
You might want to actually give tips on how to train an aggressive dog…
Todd, see #6 above.
I can totally relate to your situation in #5. My fiance (Alex) and I adopted a pet from the “Adopte a Rescue Pet” program. The dog tries to guard me from my fiance as well as our other dog (she is a teacup chiuahua). It’s especially obvious when we are all in the living room and the dog is laying at my feet in front of the couch. When Alex enters the room, the dog will growl at him.
The dog plays with Alex and the other dog all the time. Alex spends lots of time with the dog, takes him for walks, and has trained the dog to sit, stay, come, lay down, and even roll over. Then, when I come home from work the dog has a completly differant personality! He growls at Alex and almost completly ignores him and his commands. He’ll only answer to me, if he answers to anyone. I’ve tried all the advice that has been given to me. I’ve tried ignoring him, and having Alex give him treats. I don’t pet him or try to confort him. I’ll usually take him buy the collar and lead him to the crate. But in the end, he does the same thing the next day.
What did you do to stop this? When your husband gave the dog treats in the hallway, did he call him? Did he not let him back in to the office? How did he keep the dog from growling at him once all three of you were in the office? Any feedback would be great. Thank you!
Susan, it sounds like your situation is more serious than ours was. I suggest re-reading step 8, on finding a good trainer, even if money happens to be tight. I’ve also recently written a couple of blog entries this month on finding trainers and when they are needed.
This sounds like something where an experienced person present will see things and be able to help you. I’d say it’s highly likely that you can work this out if you do find a good trainer.
Best wishes!
Rosana
Hi, there. I need help with my mini austrailian shephard/chow mix dog. She just turned a year old in February, however, she’s always had a bit of an issue with food agression. We’ve had her since she was six weeks old, so we know that she’s not had to fight for food or been mistreated. When she eats, if we get to close, she’ll growl and still eat while she’s growling so I’m always worried she’ll choke. And then when she has a porkhide twist or rawhide, she’s recently gotten to the point where she starts swallowing it whole to where she starts gagging, so my boyfriend will try to swoop the piece of rawhide out of her throat. Both times this has happened she growls like she’s a rabid dog, but lst night she bit him. to the point where he needed stitches on his thumb and his index finger. I know she’s passed needing training. I’m just really short on money for extras. I’ve put away all treats, atleast for now, so she won’t have the reason to get possesive and bite.
I’m just worried that if we have kids over or, God-willing, kids of our own, then we willb e putting them in danger. Any ideas or tips? And I read the 9 here, and they are good, I just didn’t know if anyone had any personal success stories that may help me out.
Thanks for reading!
Em, I certainly understand about money being tight — been there myself plenty. But if you can’t make some progress very soon, you really do need to find a GOOD trainer, someone who will use positive, painfree methods with your dog. As I mention above, there are recent blog posts on how to find a good trainer, anywhere in the world.
That said, here is a possible approach. Do manage the situation for safety especially around children and your fiance. Do as many of the nine steps as you can.
If you haven’t already downloaded my free ebook on clicker training — link on a tab at the top of this page — then get it and start clicker training your dog.
Or even without a clicker, one way or another, start playing with food treats and your dog. I would try this first a short time AFTER she has eaten a meal, so hunger is not a factor. Here is what I mean:
I would also use rather boring food treats to keep her emotional level lower. Just one piece of her dry food at a time would do. O
Ask her to sit (or do some other behavior she knows) and then give her a food treat which she has to take out of your outstretched palm, if this is safe for your hand. If it isn’t, then set the treat on the floor or a chair for her to take. You want her to develop some self control around food.
This is a whole long process that is worthy of an entire blog post itself, but in a nutshell, training any dog to actually reach the point where she is ok with you or your fiance being around when she eats is essential…
BTW, I once had a veterinarian who was extremely relaxed about most things but he felt very strongly that rawhide chews were dangerous. I have never used one since. I highly recommend Nylabones (or there may be other brands) instead.
Another resource: I am really impressed with the Clickertraining ebook that I’ve reviewed: http://www.training-dogs.com/blog/clickertraining-4-secrets-review.html
It would cost some money, though less than one session with a trainer, and these people really know their stuff. Way more than I do!
Here’s what I wrote about them and dog aggression:
http://www.training-dogs.com/blog/dog-aggression-handled-by-clicker-training.html
Also, click on the category Aggression in the sidebar for an article I did about other websites on dog aggression.